Over recent decades, the wine industry has been evolving to embrace greener, more sustainable practices. Vinho verde (white from the eponymous region in northern Portugal) is literally “green wine”… but what are the eco credentials of the wine in your glass?

From Conventional to Sustainable

Modern viticulture, much like broader agriculture, underwent significant changes from the 1950s. Mechanisation, chemical inputs, irrigation, and clonal selection were used to increase yields and reduce labour costs. However, these methods often came at a cost: soil degradation, loss of biodiversity, and environmental damage.

Sustainable viticulture seeks to reverse these trends by protecting ecosystems, preserving biodiversity, and reducing chemical inputs. Integrated pest management (IPM), for example, is a key element. This method balances organic principles with measured chemical interventions, only applying treatments when pest thresholds are exceeded. Globally, initiatives like LODI RULES in California and Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand showcase the potential of sustainability in action.

Organic Viticulture: Back to Basics

Organic viticulture takes sustainability a step further. Its core principle? Healthier soils lead to healthier vines. Certified organic vineyards avoid synthetic fertilisers, herbicides, and pesticides, instead relying on compost, natural fertilisers, and cover crops to nourish the soil.

Traditional remedies, like sulphur and copper sulphate, are used sparingly to combat mildew, and eco-friendly techniques such as introducing natural predators or using “sexual confusion” pheromone traps help manage pests. These practices reduce reliance on tractors and synthetic chemicals, benefiting both the environment and the vineyard’s carbon footprint.

Globally, organic wine production has soared, from under 2% a decade ago to around 8% today. Europe is leading the charge, with Italy, Spain and Austria all prominent depending on which stats you use.  For consumers, organic certification provides confidence in their wine’s eco-friendly origins – though it may come with slightly higher costs due to more labour-intensive practices.

Biodynamic Viticulture: The Cosmic Connection

Biodynamic viticulture goes beyond organic, blending agricultural methods with philosophical and cosmic principles. Pioneered by Rudolf Steiner and Maria Thun, biodynamics views the vineyard as a living organism connected to the rhythms of the Earth, moon, and stars.

Growers align vineyard activities, such as pruning and planting, with lunar and planetary cycles. They also use homeopathic preparations like “Preparation 500,” which involves burying cow manure in a cow horn over winter, then applying it to the soil as a nutrient-rich spray.

Though it may sound esoteric, biodynamic practices have gained traction among prestigious estates, particularly in Burgundy and the Loire Valley. Certification by organisations like Demeter ensures adherence to biodynamic principles, which often overlap with organic standards. For wine enthusiasts, biodynamic wines are often celebrated for their unique expression of terroir.

Regenerative Viticulture: A Step Beyond

If sustainability aims for neutrality (do no harm), regenerative viticulture strives for a positive environmental impact. By prioritising soil health and biodiversity, regenerative practices aim to combat climate change through increased carbon sequestration. Techniques like cover cropping, minimal tillage, and integrating livestock help rebuild ecosystems and improve long-term vineyard resilience.

While regenerative practices can boost yields and profitability over time, they require upfront investments and may present scaling challenges. Nevertheless, they represent the cutting edge of eco-friendly winemaking, with the potential to reshape the industry.

The Rise of ‘Natural’ Wines

‘Natural’ winemaking embodies the ethos of “nothing added, nothing removed.” It often involves fermenting organically or biodynamically grown grapes with minimal intervention. Additives like sulphur dioxide (SO2) are either avoided entirely or used sparingly, resulting in wines that some claim are more authentic expressions of terroir.

Though lacking a universal definition, certifications such as France’s Vin Méthode Nature provide some standards for natural wines. The style, often associated with small-batch production, appeals to eco-conscious consumers looking for artisanal authenticity in their glass.

I’m going to keep using single quotes for ‘natural’ wines, though, because the term natural doesn’t really mean anything… there are no standards, it’s not regulated, and it covers a multitude of sins!

Going Green

Sustainable, organic, biodynamic and regenerative viticulture are growing everywhere. For some, this means going back to practices used for centuries, while others are at the cutting edge of viticultural science. Certified organic wines will have a symbol on the bottle – a green leaf in Europe – and many more wineries are using environmentally friendly practices.  So, next time you pour a glass, ask yourself: How green is my wine? The answer might just make it taste even better!